Sarajevo Diaries Vol II

“Hurry Up! Slowly.”

The last few days have progressed at a rapid, yet oddly slow pace. While we were successful at opening a bank account eventually, we have not been able to do much else in terms of items that were on our list of things “to do.” Things such as the medical check up I need to do at a clinic here, opening a safe deposit box, and getting internet access at home may take a week or two longer to accomplish.

“Polako” is the Bosnian word for “slowly”, and I have heard it numerous times in the last 72 hours. From an old Baba talking to her grandson on her mobile, to old mountaineers using the term to describe their approach to climbing and hiking in general…or life for that matter. Everything should be done slowly, and with great thought to when you will stop for coffee.

Spending some time *slowly* meandering through the old town last week, we found ourselves in a shoe store (big surprise for me), and I thought I would try on a pair of shoes. Having my absolutely incredible translator and Sarajevo Guide (Masa), I was able to communicate with the sales girl and ask all sorts of questions about the shoe, its price, etc etc. I should mention that Masa has been incredible in terms of guiding me through the process of getting set up for life here in Sarajevo….but apparently it was a bit embarrassing for her when I had her ask the sales girl what the stores return policy was….who knew there was not such a thing here?

We spent Saturday and Sunday this last weekend on a nearby mountain range called “Bjelasnica” (bee-yell-ash-nitza), where we were taken climbing and hiking by Masa’s two cousins, Namik and Edo. These brothers are accomplished mountaineers, ski instructors and mountain rescue guides, and all-around amazing guys. They’ve spent their lives in Sarajevo, and lived in the city throughout the war. They each have an amazing sense of humor, one that also pervades much (if not all) of the community.

Namik and Edo took us on a tour through three of the remote mountain huts on Bjelasnica, each of which is open year-round. Ranging in altitude from 1350 to 1850 meters, the huts can sleep anywhere from 4 to about 20 people at a time. We spent Saturday night at Podgradina, the first hut, and were regaled with hours upon hours of stories from Ferid, the president of the local mountaineers’ society who was our host at the hut, and his gang of ragged mountaineers. See some of the pictures here.

Ferid thought it was hysterical that I would come to Bosnia to study Political Science…..”Why would you come here for that? Do you want to be an expert on how to disintegrate Canada?” Even more strange that I would not do more to put Masa in “her place” in our relationship. He was joking…I think….and did add that the lack of this sort of physicality in the relationships of Canadians must be the reason why we “..have so many homos.”

Welcome to the mountains in Bosnia.

The area around Sarajevo on Bjelasnica reminded us a lot of aspects of Gatineau Park in Quebec, and at the higher altitudes we were struck by the resemblance to pictures we have seen of New Zealand. In fact we were anticipating the arrival of Aragorn, Legolas, and Gimli at any moment. Sounds crazy, I know, but if you have seen the movies, and then look at these pictures here, you will see what I mean.

Sunday night we went out to meet a few of my classmates from the ERMA program, in advance of classes starting this week. What we thought would be only a handful turned out to be about twenty of us, as word had spread via e-mail that there was going to be a get together. In total the group in the program will be about 35-40 people, representing Canada (me), the U.S (one), Bosnia, Serbia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, and Croatia.

School began on Monday when we all took part in the graduation ceremony for the class of 2005-2006. From all accounts the students had an amazing year and grew to be a very closely knit group. Having spent Tuesday and Wednesday this week in some seminars to start our term, I think that things bode well for us to have a similar experience.